Hello from London: A Local’s Guide to Must-See Sights and Secrets

Welcome to the first edition of Umami Girl, London. Despite the drama of nearby disturbances on arrival, we are safe, settling in, and slowly learning the small logistics of a new city—where to find the farmers’ market, how to use local coins, and how to dry laundry on a balcony. Thank you for the messages checking in on us; your concern meant a lot, and I’m grateful for every “are you okay?” I received.

zucchini blossoms on a plate

Oh—and in case I didn’t mention it: we live in Europe now. It’s both thrilling and ordinary at once. You won’t see me suddenly speaking with a full-on accent, but you might notice small changes in daily life—like the dryer model we use here. And yes, those are courgette flowers in the photo.

laundry drying on a balcony

There’s a lot to love about London, but right now one of the greatest pleasures is the simple fact of living in a vibrant city again. It suits where we are at the moment and feels refreshingly familiar. We no longer own a car, so we walk everywhere. Stumbling upon a farmers’ market while heading to the pharmacy on a weekday is one of those small urban joys—sorrel, zebra tomatoes, award-winning cheeses, and huge pans of paella all within easy reach.

Last week we discovered the Swiss Cottage farmers’ market half a mile from home. It felt like a lucky find: stalls full of seasonal produce and passionate vendors. The market atmosphere—friendly, local, and lively—made the outing feel like a proper community experience.

label from wyfe of bath cheese on a dark background

Finding the Swiss Cottage farmers’ market

The market was easy to love and a little tricky to find. My sense of direction tends to operate like a low-fi GPS with slightly outdated maps: competent, occasionally puzzled. On my first attempt I reached a two-block radius and then stalled as closing time approached. The next day I went back and found it properly—reward enough for a repeat trip.

There’s a particular thrill I get from unusual vegetables; seeing a bin of bag-your-own sorrel made my heart skip. The whole scene—the colors, the smells, the variety of produce—felt like rediscovering a small, joyful part of life I’d missed.

The vendors were part of what made the visit memorable. My new favorite cheesemonger gave me an impromptu lesson on British coins while ringing up my purchases. He quoted the price in pounds with a grin and then translated it into dollars in a matter-of-fact way that acknowledged the current state of currency concerns. I left with cheese and a small, cheerful human connection—exactly the kind of market memory you want to take home.

british coins on a gingham background

Our Belsize Park flat

Back at the flat I used some of my market finds: I stuffed zucchini blossoms with a teaspoon of cheese each, simmered them gently in a simple tomato sauce for a few minutes, and served them over pasta. Cooking in this kitchen feels like a treat—small but bright, with a view that reminds me why I was excited to move here.

Looking in to London kitchen from balcony
Looking out to balcony from London kitchen

Getting used to London life

After rain the view can be particularly beautiful. Over three days we saw two full rainbows—little reminders of how quickly the weather can shift and how much charm those shifts bring. The practical lessons of city living are still arriving—like remembering to remove laundry from the dryer before it starts to rain again—but those are easy to learn in time.

That’s the update for now. We’re enjoying exploring local markets, learning small new routines, and settling into our Belsize Park life. Thanks for reading—more thoughts and recipes from London to come soon.